Don’t replace a Briggs & Stratton magnesium flywheel keyway with a steel one.
If the engine suddenly binds up and dies, from mechanical failure, or from hitting a clandestine rock, the magnesium keyway will, snap. It’s supposed to.
And while an hour’s time to fix it, plus a buck to by a new keyway may be inconvenient, it’s less so than buying a new crankshaft.
The steel keyway won’t snap and will cause something else to fail, which is probably more expensive.
Here’s why and how I found this out.
I’m using my landlord’s 20+year-old rototiller when the pull start catches, sucking in the rope that I’d tied to the handle.
It makes this crazy, horrendous squealing noise and dies instantly, from full throttle to nothing in no time.
I spend the next couple hours with a bag of tools and a can of ether trying to start the beast while it backfires at me.
I come to find the keyway in two pieces when I go to inspect the points.
Luckily Don's Saw & Mower Service in Paradise had the part and sold it to me for a buck.
Put it all back together and it fired right up.
Here’s how to handle it.
This particular model was a side-shaft style. Mowers however are probably a vertical shaft.
First take the pull-start cover off.
Then remove the pickup coil, high-tension plug wire and spark plug. (Removing the plug makes turning over the engine by hand easier.)
Now remove the debris screen (if equipped.)
Next somehow prevent the flywheel from turning as you back off the pull-start clutch with a pipe wrench or water-pump pliers. (Be careful not to loose the ball bearings in the clutch.)
The clutch is what is supposed to let the motor spin independently of the pull start. It’s probably aluminum and attached in front of the flywheel.
I used a breaker bar jammed in the flywheel cooling fins and wedged against the tiller blades to hold the flywheel. It’s probably not an approved method but it worked. Locking pliers could’ve probably done the same without risking snapping off a cooling fin and unbalancing the motor.
Perhaps a rubber belt strapped around the flywheel would work to hold it in place too.
Maybe if you’re stronger than I, you can hold it there with your bare hands.
With the clutch removed the flywheel can be coaxed off.
The flywheel came off easily with a Johnson bar wedged between it and the engine block.
Note: [Now is a good time to file the points down and set dwell or gap (as described in my points blog)]
In my case, I sanded the points down with 1,000 grit paper to just touch them up and hoped for the best.
Stick the new flywheel keyway in and reverse the process.
Bingo, fire that thing up and let it make a man of you while you till your new summer garden.
Now for that rock-hard dirt.
